Tuesday, October 28, 2025

Day 2, Leg 2

Today's walk went surprisingly well, partly thanks to the lovely weather and partly thanks to the shorter distance—only 20K today. I walked at a slow, steady pace of about 3.2 kph, and since I felt better today, I took fewer rest breaks than I'd taken yesterday. I got to my destination before noon and dithered at the local convenience store to pick up lunch: three small cans of tuna and two diet sodas—mojito-flavored Pepsi, which turned out to be as awful as it sounds. My motel room was again W60,000 with no mention of an "early fee." In this case, I think it's because the (relatively) new owners realize how strategically located this yeogwan is.

I'm still not wearing my wide-brimmed hat yet, and I may have sunburned my neck a bit as a result. No matter. More important is that my feet survived today's 20K intact, and I'm quietly hoping that the miles are adding up to a kind of gentle conditioning, toughening my feet up for the rest of the journey. Tomorrow's leg is another 20K, but a bit hillier. Today's leg, one of my favorites, was largely flat and straightforward, hanging close to the river's edge the entire time except for that weird, twisty path I had to take at the beginning when leaving Yangsan. 

So—20 kilometers from the Bliss Hotel in Yangsan to the Nakdong-jang Motel in Miryang City. I left at 5 a.m., an hour later than on Day 1, and I got here around 11:30 a.m. As mentioned above, my pace was about 3.2 kph, which is painfully slow if you're anywhere from normal to athletic. But I walked steadily, enjoyed the cool, and experienced only a small amount of under-toe irritation, which I took care of with an ibuprofen tablet. 

Unfortunately, the Bliss Hotel in Yangsan seems to be going downhill. As I've experienced in a lot of other motels, the electricity for charging my devices seemed to be coming in at a trickle, so in the morning, my phone was only 45% charged, and my power pack was barely charged at all. I shrugged and didn't bother waiting for a full charge; it would've taken hours. But the next time I'm in Yangsan, I'll consider trying a different motel. And no, it's not that my cord's damaged; I use the same cord to charge devices at my place, and everything charges up fast.

The one major consequence of leaving while under-charged was that I ran out of all power (cell + power pack) a little past halfway through the walk. I have more than enough photos to give you your daily ten, Dear Reader, but only about 90 pics in total for the day instead of my usual 200-700. Luckily, my final photos were of the "swimming dragons" in that one park. Nice way to end, and it actually felt liberating not to have to shutterbug every twenty meters. 

I tried to take pics of the mist rising off the river as the sun began to burn through the morning coolness (it was 4.3°C/39.7°F this morning; my fingertips started to freeze); I'll put up one image two images of that, and you can tell me whether I succeeded in capturing it. The Nakdong looks pleasantly ghostly when that happens, and it's one of the reasons why I like starting each segment of these long walks early in the morning. 

So unlike yesterday, when I walked 29K after barely sleeping and was utterly exhausted at the end of the day, I started today well rested, arrived at my destination before noon, and still feel awake and full of energy (albeit a little stiff). As I walked today, I was amused by my shadow during some stretches: with my bandanna pulled tight against my skull and my large jacket loose around me, my shadow looked rather monkish, which may be apropos since this walk will be more monkish in nature than previous ones: very few food indulgences, absolutely no snacks while hiking (angina), and greater single-mindedness of purpose.

I think my phone reached 0% battery power with only a few kilometers to go because my step count for today is only a couple thousand lower than my step count from last year. So I'm simply putting up today's stats, truncated though they be. Enjoy the day's images. 

today's stats before I lost power

today's route north and west

So much electricity. Poor North Korea.

Jupiter up top, Sirius at bottom, and maybe Procyon in the middle.

The camera's night setting makes everything brighter.

33K was how far I'd walked at that point. The 2-day total is about 50K.

cold enough for frost

I guess the tree really wanted to get out. 

WHAT THE FUCK HAPPENED HERE???

nearly monkish shadow

squished mama mantis, eggs splattered and exposed

swimming dragon

Two bonus pics—attempting to capture the river mist:


Play Misty for me. 


7 comments:

  1. I think you managed to capture the mist, but of course no photo will ever be able to capture everything you experience when you are there in the moment. Travel photographs are a funny thing. I take tons of them as well, but they are by their very nature a denial of simply being in the moment. I once had a camera die on me early in a trip; although I was at first disappointed, I quickly felt that same sense of liberation you did. No, I don't have many photos from that trip to look back on, but I was there in the moment.

    Anyway, today sounds like it went a lot better than yesterday, which is good. Perhaps I was reading too much into yesterday's post, but I thought I detected a sense of nervousness at how things might go. Today's post feels more positive, splattered creatures not withstanding.

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    1. I don't disagree that recording a moment often means not being in the moment, but I wonder if there might be other factors at play. For instance, as I was walking along a long section of concrete wall today, I became fascinated by the weird patterns of rock poking through the mostly smoothed-over concrete, so I felt compelled to take some photos of those patterns, which felt almost like some mysterious language. That was, in a weird way, my style of "being in the moment" because I was indulging an impulse generated by an artistic impression. And now, I have a set of images, instances of framed randomness, that I can look at over and over, to contemplate and consider.

      This isn't to deny anything you wrote. I don't think you're wrong. Shutterbugging can be all about ego, etc., and undeniably, there is often something distancing about letting a lens get in the way of direct experience. I just think there might other things going on when people take photographs. I submit that, were you to examine your own reasons for taking travel pics, you'd probably find there are reasons that impel/compel you, again and again, to aim your trusty camera.

      All of this reminds me: if/when I hike the Camino with Mike, I'm not going to take any pics until the walk is over. If this is a holy pilgrimage for my buddy, then taking pics during it would be as profane as shooting pics inside a Buddhist temple while a 법회 was going on.

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    2. Oh, yes, there are certainly other things going on when taking photos, travel or otherwise. It is a form of artistic expression, for one, and I would never deny that. It's also true that we can't always live completely in the moment without any thought of the future. So I don't think it is necessarily wrong to take a photo with the thought that you might enjoy it later. When I look back on many of my travel photos, they bring me back to that moment in my mind. True, I could have gone there without the photo, but they can act as handy triggers.

      I guess all I was trying to do with my comment was agree with you that your phone dying wasn't the worst possible thing that could have happened.

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  2. Oh, yeah—yesterday, I was nervous about doing 29K without having done any practice walks of that length. Finishing was a relief, and today's walk was a breeze by comparison. My new worry is how I'm going to handle the serious hills in my future. Slowly, I guess.

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  3. Progress is progress, so well done. I'd be nervous being out without a working phone —glad you didn't need it. Photos came out fine. I can see the mist, but probably not as impressive as what you saw.

    Keep on keeping on!

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    1. John, you are a child of the 2000's. LOL I, like pretty much everybody in today's world, am used to having my phone with me at all times. But I dont think that Kevin is in the middle of the Amazon basin and a 3 day trek from the nearest village.

      Brian

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  4. Brian, yes, I inadvertently revealed my phone addiction. But for context, with Kevin's heart ailment, being able to contact emergency services could be life-saving.

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